Delicooks

A culinary tour of Tunisia

Located on the North African coastline, Tunisia is the smallest of the Maghreb countries. Dynamic and open to the world, its capital is Tunis, is a place where you can enjoy a varied cuisine.

If you ever find yourself in Tunis, take a stroll along rue Eperney and stop at the old market in the center of town. Make your way to the shop called Barka, a treasure trove of of products, from harissa – a condiment considered one of the most important in Tunisian cuisine - to an endless array of spices, garlic, olives, peppers, etc..

Leaving behind the market, which should be visited early to catch it at it’s most bustling moment, make your way up  Al-Djazira street towards the medina. Here you’ll find Tunisian craftsmen working with leather, wood, silver and copper, carpets and clothes. Halfway through, you’ll find a tearoom, where it is worth pausing to savor the typical green tea with mint and sugar. It's easy to get lost in the labyrinth of the medina, where it’s well worth stocking up on spices, rose water and orange flower water – all great for pastry recipes. Don’t forget some good-natured haggling – it’s an integral part of Arab culture.

On the edge of the medina, it’s time to unwind after all the bustle of the markets with a refreshing lemonade in one of the many cafes..
You should also find time to visit Sadika Kesko (www.sadika-keskes.com), a craft workshop bursting with creativity and originality. Dishes, glasses, vases ... everything for the table and home. Most items are handmade glass in colors and tones of the Mediterranean and make great gifts or souvenirs.

Another must-see is the small town of Sidi Bou Said, a delightful warren of houses painted blue and white, dappled with the spectacular fuchsia of bougainvillaea and yellow mimosa. You could spend all day wandering the streets of the old town that boasts fabulous views of the turquoise blue sea. And you’re never far from a small cafe where you sip mint tea . Check out the Crêperie on the square at the top of the village, famous in Sidi Bou Said for cakes.

There’s no shortage of places for a good lunch or dinner. Our favorite is Dar Zarrouk (www.darsaid.com.tn), a charming, romantic  place you can enjoy a snack in the beautiful jasmine-scented garden. The service can be slow but the Tunisian and Mediterranean specialties are worth the wait: try the fish couscous. In summer you can dine on the terrace overlooking the sea.

Bizerte, the ancient Phoenician city of Dyarrhytus Hippo, founded in the eleventh century BC, is located 64 km. north of the capital and less than an hour's drive by the new highway. The two parts of the city, the ancient and modern, come together in the port, packed  with lively cafes and restaurants. Grab a ringside seat and watch the fishermen dock their boats at dusk. Behind the port you’ll find markets and shops in the morning, while in the afternoon you can stroll and enjoy an authentic seaside atmosphere with a distinctive Arabic twist.

For lunch or dinner we recommend the excellent Restaurant Le Sport Nautique, where you can enjoy delicious fresh fish on the terrace, overlooking the blue Mediterranean.